As the name suggests, this restaurant is hard by the river in Henley, with an all-day decked area offering stunning vistas and the prospect of fine-weather carousing. Shaun Dickens started his career at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, moved to Per Se in New York and eventually settled as head chef and farm manager at Fallowfields Country House near Oxford, where he was responsible for the foodie output of the estate. Not surprisingly, his cooking has a contemporary edge, with lots of detailing and technical know-how in dishes such as confit Loch Duart salmon with roasted beets, beetroot spaghetti and horseradish sorbet, or loin of Oxfordshire lamb accompanied by marinated heirloom tomato, black olive, goats’ curd and potato ‘coin’. Desserts also show off Dickens’ fondness for fancy technique, as in spiced compressed melon with sticky orange cake, balsamic yoghurt and cucumber sorbet. Well-chosen wines, too.