Fish is the reason for choosing this bijou restaurant, a beachfront sibling to the South Lanes original. The mood is relaxed, yet there’s an unmistakably glamorous edge to proceedings. Bread with garlic mayo and smoked mackerel pâté is a moreish combo, oysters are given several treatments, platters of fruits de mer feature whole crab or lobster, and the kitchen also sends out fish pie or langoustines with a white wine cream sauce. The short wine list gives plenty of space to Champagnes, while service is speedy and well versed. Prices are relatively steep by Brighton standards, but for seafood this fresh you won’t mind shelling out a little extra.