It has to be said; this isn’t the best-looking pub in the Peak District’s prettiest village, though a recent lick of paint has worked wonders. But even when you venture in, your heart doesn’t soar (chairs and tables from a conservatory furniture outlet, perhaps?). What does quicken the pulse, however, is the menu. Chef/owner James Duckett has worked all over the world, most recently in Devon, and brings considerable skills to the table; local bounty is used to its best advantage in dishes such as cider-soused herring fillets with a Derbyshire oatcake and white onion sauce or beef shin with stuffed bone marrow, colcannon and red wine sauce. Elsewhere, a perfect plate of salted pollock fritters with homemade red pepper ketchup and a soft-boiled egg elevates this plain boozer into ‘one to watch’. Stylish accommodation too.