Chef/proprietor Jason Gallagher describes his low-ceilinged basement dining room as a 'decadent grotto': fairy lights and tendrils of ivy coil around the iron railings at the top of the stone steps, while the seductive dining room is tricked out with saucy prints on black walls, gilt-framed mirrors and more flickering lights. The cooking is clever and thoroughly contemporary – from a cheeky take on fish and chips served as a starter, to a trio of passion fruit for dessert. In between, expect classy ideas ranging from crab-crusted halibut with courgette ribbons, heritage potatoes and lemon butter sauce to pork fillet wrapped in pancetta with pork belly, cheek and crispy ear, black pudding and sweet potato purée. On Sunday nights there’s a special set menu with a BYO offer for those wanting to keep costs down. Note that lunch is strictly by prior arrangement.