Marco Pierre White may have departed, but the Yew Tree’s ancient charms and dependable country cooking remain very much intact. Culinary-themed paintings have replaced MPW memorabilia on the walls, although the dinky lamps and flowing tablecloths still lend a sense of classy retro to the cosy, low-ceilinged dining room. The old-school British menu has also been supplanted by a more recognisable, pubby roster: in season, expect Scotch pheasant eggs on homemade chutney or poached local asparagus dressed with parmesan shavings, olive oil and shallots, while year-round treats such as a mighty plate of Middlewhite pork (fat sausages, bacon, kidneys, a loin chop, ample crackling and apple mash) don’t leave much room for nursery puds. Without the celeb factor, prices can seem steep – although a fixed-price deal proves astonishingly good value. The wine list is extensive and ales are well kept.