Ambrette’s folksy, ethnic interior won’t win any points for high glamour, but its resounding popularity suggests that it’s clearly doing something right. Much depends on “gifted and talented” chef/proprietor Dev Biswal, whose innovative culinary approach yields a steady stream of thrilling dishes based on high-quality, local ingredients – “no curry, no rice, just a superb amalgamation of Eastern spices with French twists”, proclaimed one fan. Consider soft-shell crab with sea purslane and smoked crab raita, breast of wood pigeon with cinnamon-poached peach, game pâté and pigeon roulade, or Kentish venison loin (cooked sous-vide) with pears, fennel and a sauce of garlic, red wine, chocolate and black pepper. Finally, round off in stunning style with sweet samosas and Darjeeling ‘chai’ jelly. Needless to say, this “fascinating” off-piste take on Indian cuisine is no place for the late-night lager crowd.