With its thatched roof, low-ceilinged bar & beams galore, plus a large garden with pigs rooting around, this 16th-century pub is endowed with all the obligatory rustic requisites. Real ales reinforce the pubby image, but the award of a Michelin star gives notice that food is in the ascendancy here. Michael North sources local produce with a vengeance, & the result is a commendably short, seasonal menu bursting with sharply executed ideas: pan-fried terrine of pig’s head & black pudding is served with sauerkraut, piccalilli dressing & fried quails’ eggs, a ballottine of free-range chicken & herbs comes with potato purée, leeks & thyme jus, while desserts such as poached Yorkshire rhubarb with pannacotta, ginger mille-feuille & rhubarb sherbet are true to the cause.
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