Tucked away up a secret snicket in picture-pretty Wiswell, this rustic inn now cuts quite a dash with its heritage colours, mismatched antique furniture and country prints, while young informed service and a bold, contemporary menu belie the traditional surroundings. Local lad Steven Smith is renowned for his creative use of seasonal produce and shows off his considerable skills with dishes such as Jersey royals cooked in bacon dashi (Japanese stock) with crispy pheasant egg, ‘hen of the woods’ mushrooms and Ibérico ham or the cheekily named ‘Anna’s happy trotters’ (roast pork loin and sausage, salt-baked pineapple, spring cabbage, black pudding and pork-pie sauce). This is “sheer fine-dining class thinly disguised as pub food”, observed one admiring fan. There are simpler ideas too, while desserts might include a show-stopping banana soufflé with macaroon and toffee sauce. The food is matched by a superb 250-bin wine list.