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Square Meal Review of River Cottage Canteen & Deli Axminster
As you might expect from a man who made his name living the life of a smallholder for TV, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s ‘store & canteen’ champions all things local. Walk through the shop
selling locally reared meat & bread from the nearby bakery, & you come to a high-ceilinged dining room with simple wooden tables, an open kitchen & painted brick walls.
Fearnley-Whittingstall doesn’t actually get his hands dirty at the stove, but the mop-haired celebrity does provide recipes for dishes such as crab, mussel & squid stew or crispy pig’s head
salad (made with tongue, cheeks & even ears). Producers & growers are highlighted on the menu, & the wine list is also weighted towards English vineyards such as Camel Valley. Outside,
there’s a patio & kitchen garden, which is regularly raided by the kitchen staff. It doesn’t get more local than that.