Fish is the reason for choosing this bijou restaurant, tucked away in the city’s maze-like South Lanes. It’s a tiny space with white tiled walls, high marble tables, an open kitchen & a wet fish counter; the mood is relaxed, yet there’s an unmistakably glamorous edge to proceedings thanks to crystal chandeliers. Bread with garlic mayo & smoked mackerel pâté is a moreish combo, oysters are given several treatments, platters of fruits de mer feature whole crab or lobster, & the kitchen also sends out fish pie or langoustines with a white wine cream sauce. The short wine list gives plenty of space to Champagnes, while service is speedy & well versed. Prices are relatively steep by Brighton standards, but for seafood this fresh you won’t mind shelling out a little extra.