Hoxton Apprentice

Working on the same principle as the better-known Fifteen round the corner, Hoxton Apprentice was set up by catering doyenne Prue Leith (though she is no longer involved) to train disadvantaged young people for a future working in restaurants – in the kitchen & front of house. ‘It’s a lot less bling than Fifteen’ readers are quick to point out, approving of both its good-value food from a short but sweet menu, & reasonably priced wines. Dishes are well-thought through & ingredients given a clever twist: grilled mackerel comes with shaved vegetables, pea shoots & horseradish cream, while saddle of Kent rabbit is stuffed with apple, black pudding & parsnip. Moroccan glass lamps hanging from high ceilings & jazzy music (live on Tuesday nights) make for a mellow mood.