RSJ Restaurant

If RSJ had a glamorous riverfront location, there is no doubt that this discreet restaurant would be far more celebrated than it actually is. The fact that it keeps going, year after year, despite the unfashionable address on the corner of a main road & decor that has hardly changed since it opened in 1980 is testament to the splendid cooking, the wonderful wine list with a special focus on the Loire, & the warmth of the welcome. The kitchen turns out classic dishes such as smoked haddock with white & green asparagus, terrine of confit rabbit & foie gras, & sea bass with samphire & shrimp hollandaise. Puds are sublime – & an excuse, if you need one, to sample some of the delicious sweet wines produced in the Loire. Food writer Ursula Ferrigno pops in to cook Sunday lunch, & wine buffs should enjoy the regular tastings held at the restaurant.

Wine List: You could come to RSJ & drink wine from outside of the Loire Valley, but that would be missing the point. This is the best collection of regional wine, outside of the Loire itself. The owners often deal directly with great producers, resulting in some unique older vintages at bargain prices. Everything is good value & there are useful food matching notes. Best Buy White 2004 Domaine Ogereau Anjou Blanc Cuvee Prestige, Loire, France, £20.95. Best Buy Red 2003 Thierry Germain ‘Marginale’, Saumur-Champigny, Loire, France, £27.95.