The Potting Shed at Dorset Square Hotel

Now that the Dorset Square Hotel has returned to the Firmdale fold, The Potting Shed restaurant has once more put down roots in its sky-lit basement. True to the name, expect terracotta pots, garden ornaments and thick oak tables, smartened up with of-the-moment brasserie furnishings. Pictures of cricketers reference Dorset Square’s heritage as the original site of Lord’s Cricket Ground, while the menu compensates for any lack of surprises with bills that are extremely modest for Marylebone. Tiger prawn cocktail and Melba toast delights at £7.50, Hereford côte de boeuf with fat, wedge-style chips and béarnaise is a snip at £20.50, and nursery puds such as bread-and-butter pudding or treacle tart with raspberries are even better value at £4.50. Complimentary post-meal sorbets are another generous touch. Service is engaging and there’s a complete lack of pretence about the whole place.