Oxo Tower Restaurant

Although the Oxo Tower Restaurant is, for most diners, a special occasion venue, the vibe is pleasantly informal. The polished, professional staff are attentive but discreet & clever acoustics allow the space to buzz with diners’ chat without being too loud. The views are great, but make sure you book a table that overlooks the river to avoid dining against a backdrop of south London’s tower blocks. The food lives up to the view (of the Thames, not the tower blocks) – a plateful of white crab meat served with a light avocado mousse & corn blinis was fresh & zesty, while a main of Dover sole with chickpeas, chorizo & squid provides an unexpected combination of flavours. Rich venison is complemented by a sweet-sour tamarillo puree. The wine list is long but prices climb steeply from the £20 mark, & despite the eclectic selection on offer, sommeliers tend to steer customers towards safe choices. This, however, is the main complaint about a restaurant that, despite being ‘very expensive’, offers a ‘great experience – the perfect place for a business lunch, dinner with friends or a romantic evening’.

Wine List: Oxo’s list has been getting steadily better over recent years & is now one of the best in London. There are 25 wines by the glass including six Champagnes. The rest of the list covers the world with the classic regions, Australia & the USA standing out. A noteworthy innovation is a policy of capped service charge for the expensive bottles. Best Buy White 2004 Grosset Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia, £33. Best Buy Red 2003 Casa Castillo Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain, £22.