Now that the Michelin-starred grandstanding has died down, this gastropub from Ledbury whizz-kid Brett Graham can revert to its blueprint – here is a local boozer that encourages drinkers, runs a quiz night and just happens to serve stellar food. Three tasty ales sit on tap for those craving a post-work pint, and service is as chirpy as the setting – although most Fulham locals are lured here by the Harwood’s top-notch cooking. Punchy dishes roll along with the seasons and there’s always plenty to tempt those with inquisitive palates: our visit yielded crispy pheasant egg and ham hock with wild garlic and parsley, ahead of brill with cauliflower, brown shrimp and samphire, with a combo of rhubarb, parkin and honey to finish. House wines start at a rock-bottom £4 a glass, although bottle prices leap up to three figures.
Wines at The Harwood Arms are split up fairly traditionally by country (with Oz, NZ and South Africa collectively grouped as the ‘Tri-Nations’). With (mostly) wealthy locals and a Michelin star behind it, there’s no surprise that the wines in each section climb fairly rapidly above £50, but the list deserves credit for giving good descriptions of every single wine irrespective of price. And at 110 bins, it’s still well focused. There’s also ‘Seasonal Wine Specials’ at the front, along with 30 wines available by the glass (including half-a-dozen excellent Lustau sherries).
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