‘Eat heartily and give the house a good name’ is the motto of Tom Conran’s disarmingly cool Irish gastropub, and it’s certainly easy to do both here. The diminutive downstairs boozer is pure Dublin charm, with a well-stocked oyster bar, a laid-back menu (think clam chowder or hearty steak pie) and perfect Guinness complemented by homespun interiors. Upstairs in the dining room, things get a bit more serious. White tablecloths, burgundy wood panelling and giant prints set the scene for a repertoire that sticks largely to wholesome Brit grub. A three-course dinner might see homemade brawn with piccalilli followed by a chunky Aberdeen Angus fore-rib with potato gratin, with seasonal fruit crumble to finish. Wines are loyal to the Old World, and service is as young and hip as the clientele.
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