Arguably the best known in Tom Conran’s mini-empire of Westbourne Park eateries, The Cow has been flying the flag for ‘upstairs/downstairs’ dining since 1995. The ground-floor pub, modelled on an Irish tavern, serves spankingly fresh oysters, winkles & whelks helped down with pints of Guinness – or you might fancy a hearty bowlful of fish soup served in the French style with punchy rouille & croûtons. On the first floor, an air of gentility prevails: expensive-looking wallpaper & graphic prints provide a style-conscious backdrop to the linen-covered tables, while the kitchen ramps things up with plates of devilled lamb’s kidneys, goats’ curd risotto &, in a nod to the venue’s name, côte de boeuf or rib-eye steak. There’s plenty to commend both dining areas, so let your mood decide.
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