The Cow

Owner Tom Conran makes a clear distinction between the gastro & pub elements of this fiendishly popular, two-tiered outfit. On the ground floor you’ll find a higgledy-piggledy, raffish Irish tavern oozing retro charm with its leather stools & kitsch bovine paraphernalia. At the back, achingly hip punters cram on to small tables to devour whelks & winkles, oysters & groaning seafood platters, as well as meaty Cow Classic mains, accompanied by a pint of Guinness or London Pride. The no-bookings policy doesn’t seem to faze anyone. Upstairs is a classy, composed affair & the kitchen demands to be taken seriously. A reassuringly compact menu showcases retro British classics, but borrows from Italy & France too. Prawn cocktail or minestrone soup could precede pan-roasted pigeon with bubble & squeak, but, again, it’s the seafood that really sparkles. Eager-to-please staff are equipped to offer recommendations from the predominantly Old World wine list.