Brown’s, a university town fixture, has now extended its reach from Brighton in the south to Glasgow in the north – with further openings on the agenda. There’s clearly mileage in its potted palms, bentwood chairs & a ‘something for everyone’ formula. Alas, readers continue to berate poor service & forgettable food that puts ‘quantity over quality’. Find a good branch or a good day though, & that old warm familiarity returns. The brasserie/grill menu gets it right with a retro offering of burgers, fish pies, lobster tagliatelle & chicken Caesar salads, while pork belly with cauliflower cheese ‘bread & butter pudding’ or cured Trealy Farm ham with figs feel right for today’s budget foodie. Inexpensive cocktails & some interesting wines (Brachetto d’Acqui, Château Musar among others) might surprise you.
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