Before gaining fame and notoriety as one of the contestants on I’m A Celebrity…, John Burton-Race hit the big time as a high-rolling chef – earning two Michelin stars at L’Ortolan in Berkshire and at his self-named restaurant within London’s Landmark Hotel. He later bought Dartmouth’s iconic Carved Angel (once home to the likes of Joyce Molyneux) and re-branded it as the New Angel. Now he has resurrected the concept in Notting Hill, with his long-time colleague Stephen Humphries running the kitchen. Plush wallpaper and white tablecloths make a smart first impression, although the menu of intricately presented dishes founded on luxurious ingredients delivers mixed results. Meaty, succulent turbot and deep-flavoured, beautifully rare quail breast (served with pancetta, baby leaf salad and walnut dressing) were both cooked with skill, but details such as cloying salmon mousse and flavourless Scottish beef fillet let the side down. While it’s early days, we found that style generally overpowered substance at Burton-Race’s new capital venture.
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