This new member of the Amani family (joining restaurants in Epsom and Sanderstead) has its sights set on becoming a destination for premier Indian cuisine in south-west London: executive chef Rajeev Kumar has previously worked at The Cinnamon Club, food arrives artistically constructed on warmed slate slabs and a luxurious ethos prevails in the spacious dining room. Artistry aside, this Chelsea venture has its work cut out, positioned in a retail and office complex which empties as the work day ends. The site boasts a grand view of Chelsea Harbour but a lack of casual footfall will make sturdy word of mouth essential. Luckily, the concise menu is sure to leave diners loose-lipped. Beautifully composed starters draw on Bombay street food for inspiration without absorbing the grease, a chaat of potato and pomegranate cake, samosa and panni puri being light and gently spiced. The kitchen can just as easily produce a textbook biryani as a less conventional, searing hot Portuguese style lamb curry with crispy gnocci. Surprising additions like beetroot chutney, watercress garnishes or grilled prawns with a lime and cheddar marinade seek to accompany rather than overshadow more traditional ingredients and spices, delivering supreme flavours. Desserts of spiced carrot cake or chilli and mandarin sorbet intrigue, albeit at a premium price in comparison to the main menu. An assured, ambitious operation.
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