From the team behind Waterloo’s Anchor and Hope and Stockwell’s The Canton Arms, comes this stripped-back gastropub in the same vein. Wooden floors and bare-brick walls chime with a menu of simply assembled ingredients, all chosen for the season and gutsily presented without garnish or fuss. Ox heart with blood-coloured beetroot and horseradish is a heavy-flavoured, carnal pleasure, while smoky barbecued cuttlefish is offset by a piquant coriander and almond ‘pesto’. A meaty skate wing topped with brown-shrimp butter has also impressed, even if the butter itself was so chilled that much of the dish had gone by the time it yielded. Service is attentive and friendly enough to be forgiven a few small blunders. There’s a bar area at the front if a swift pint is required, but there’s no denying that this is first and foremost a restaurant – despite the no-bookings policy.
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