TV chef, restaurateur and all-round Indian ambassador Cyrus Todiwala OBE is known for his Parsee spin on regional cooking (particularly at Café Spice Namasté), but his latest venture finds him going global as he explores the connections between Portuguese, Brazilian and Asian cuisine. Located near the Old Vic and part of the Hampton by Hilton London Waterloo development, Assado offers an all-day roster of dishes with different accents but an obvious culinary affiliation. From marinated olives steeped with tangy lime to anchovy fillets anointed with crushed chilli flakes, the flavours here are unrepentantly big and bold. Goan-style pulled pork assado (the Portuguese word for roast) is a signature dish; a spicy, slow-cooked east-west riff in a bun, and also available to take away of a lunchtime. Meanwhile, a pork vindaloo is brightly spiced with pickle-notes, and a slow-cooked lamb ‘xacutti’ gains an impressive depth of flavour from 21 different spices. Bombay burgers and savoury filled breads (pao) also feature, while an international wine list focuses especially on some less usual Portuguese offerings. A deli corner sells spices and pastes from Todiwala’s own range.
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