A Hammersmith diamond back in the day, The Brackenbury has been dusted off and resurrected following an unfruitful hiatus. The name remains the same, but there’s a new team at the helm in the shape of Ossie Gray (ex-manager at The River Café) and two chefs with impressive CVs (think Kensington Place, The Providores etc). The music-free dining room has also been given a facelift, although it reminded us of a ‘badly finished, show-home refit’. Med-influenced flavours loom large on the menu, with lots of lentils and salads (whatever the season, plus an inventory of dishes running from deep-fried whitebait with violetta artichokes and aïoli to grilled chicken with Montpellier butter, celery and endive. It’s still early days, but we found the whole experience rather underwhelming, with zero atmosphere, average food and prices that are higher than you might expect from a neighbourhood gaff.
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