Teeny Canvas is the first London outing for Swiss chef Michael Riemenschneider, who made his name cooking at the well-regarded Abbey Hotel in Penzance. Here he is offering something different, with diners asked to build their own bespoke tasting menus from a selection of up to 16 items available for lunch or dinner. For the most part, flavours are subtle, sophisticated and multi-layered, from an assemblage of lobster, white chocolate and broccoli to a stand-out dish of succulent, fleshy langoustine and asparagus perched atop a mound of pearl barley (slow-cooked in rich veal stock). It’s deliberately complex stuff, although all that clever intricacy sometimes misses the mark – witness a plate of decadently rich, rare venison smothered by a heavy-handed smear of sweet chocolate. The room is small and service is refreshingly personal – we particularly appreciated the knowledgeable sommelier and his thoughtful suggestions for suitable wine flights.
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