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2 August 2014
(menu)

Quattro Passi

020 3463 0537

34 Dover Street, London W1S 4NG

£110.00 Italian Hanover Square, Savile Row
  • Wine: £70.00
  • Champagne: £95.00
  • Lunch: £45 (3 courses)
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 11.30am-3.30pm 6.30-11.30pm

Square Meal Review of Quattro Passi ?

With two-Michelin-starred Quattro Passi in Nerano already under his belt, celebrated Italian chef Antonio Mellino is now delivering the goods in Mayfair – albeit not to the same elevated level. The cooking is apparently inspired by the Campanian coast of southern Italy, but forget any images of sun-dappled cucina povera: instead, the kitchen replaces simplicity with ostentation, drawing attention to the quality of ingredients and the work required to prepare them. Sardinian pani carasàu (aka music-paper bread) is embossed with transparent courgette leaves set like pressed flowers; octopus salad with potatoes and green beans is as pertly fresh as a 1950s Sophia Loren; while a golden fried ‘Madame Piedmontese’ veal chop has miraculously soft, “young” meat pointed up with baby carrots on the side. A phalanx of charming, suited staff work their way around the luxuriously appointed dining room, although there’s a slightly stiff feel to proceedings.

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  1. Quattro Passi

    34 Dover Street, London W1S 4NG
    Overall rating:
     
    Julien L.

    try someplace else....

        (1)

     
    • Food & Drink: 2
    • Service: 8
    • Atmosphere: 4
    • Value: 1

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    Chef/Patron: Antonio Mellino

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