Under new owners, the serpentine den that once housed Detroit now looks elsewhere for inspiration. A New England boardwalk bar circa JFK is the retro theme for cocktails and well-judged, wood-fired, sourdough pizzas topped with, say fennel sausage or mushrooms and ricotta. Design your own app-controlled soundtrack on a 60s Wurlitzer jukebox, and choose drinks from menus dangling from the ceiling – perhaps a Clubhouse lagerita or power ranger (a Bulleit bourbon, red wine and apricot jam sour). Fun touches are set to include at-table beer pumps and table-to-table phones for flirting in true 50s style: invite the new apple of your eye to share a spring break (one of various bowls from £38). Otherwise, this buzzy, loud basement has ‘schooners’ of beer and wine from £4 a glass, as Coney Island comes to Covent Garden.
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