This small-plates eatery and wine shop has followed cousins Brawn and Soif to London’s outlying foodie neighbourhoods, offering Lordship Lane locals a more coherent version of its predecessor Green & Blue. Inside, the dining room’s red-brick walls and wooden bar are lined with shelves of bottles, while 300-litre steel wine vats sit alongside more clusters of tiny tables next door. The menu is a short list of imaginative seasonal combinations: a bright, elegant deconstructed ploughman’s of cheese, crunchy breadcrumbs and pickled onion slivers; juicy white crabmeat and broccoli enlivened by citrusy sorrel; tender pork fillet accompanied by homemade morcilla and astringent gooseberries. For afters, squidgy sourdough beignets provide a properly satisfying finale. The by-the-glass wine selection is bolstered by astonishingly good-value measures of ‘natural’ vintages from the vats, while bottles are lovingly picked from all over Europe.
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