This sprawling branch of London Cocktail Club is the latest in a burgeoning mini-chain from Brummie likely lad JJ Goodman – winner of BBC2’s The Restaurant back in 2009. Those familiar with his good-natured party pit of the same name on Goodge Street will know the score. Here, the maverick mixologist imagines an LA Chicano gang’s subterranean HQ, peppered with graffiti and staffed by wild-eyed bartenders. The rock and roll ambience gets progressively more rumbustious as the night grows long and the accessibly priced cocktails kick in – so order anything from sophisticated clover club and French 75 to madcap mixes such as bacon and egg martini, via bad-boy Tequila drinks including a seriously hot-tempered chilli sling. Grub ranges from popcorn, onion rings and chilli squid with margarita dip to hush puppies and frankfurters in buns.
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