Shoehorned into a former chippie on Wilton Way, Mayfields is a neighbourhood bistro of the type one encounters in fashionable Paris – although the only French thing about it is the wine list (Borough Wines, across the way, is involved). Chef Matthew Young (ex-Wapping Food) steers the food on a wildly international course, jumping from Italy to Japan across a voguish ‘small plates’ menu of smart food without fuss. The daily line-up of around a dozen dishes yields some dazzling results, ranging from high-impact bottarga-coated mozzarella to ‘art on a plate’ in the form of lemon sole with paper-thin, liquorice-dusted daikon ‘scales’. Meanwhile, a combo of beef, lettuce, mint and mustard provides a delicious inversion of the wraps served in nearby Mare Street’s budget Vietnamese joints. Not all dishes hit quite the same heights, but it’s all interesting stuff.
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