The two ex-Nobu protégés who founded hot-ticket Yashin Sushi have created a very different kettle of fish with their second venture. Like its predecessor, Ocean House is a smart, sophisticated venue with the odd offbeat design flourish (note the life-sized horse-lamp), but the menu is exclusively seafood with a ‘lips to fin’ approach underpinning proceedings. Nibbles of crunchy umami mackerel skeleton with sweet vegetable chips throw down the gauntlet, and the kitchen also offers various takes on fish roe and bone soups, with carbs appearing in the shape of squid-ink bread with homemade seafood butter. Elsewhere, grilled dry-aged sea bream is the whole caboodle, eels are kept live, prepared to order and slow-cooked in a water bath, while salt-marinated tuna is served with chopped bonito stomach and carrot gel. The food is backed by a 150-strong wine and saké list.
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