The brainchild of international restaurateur Rainer Becker (Roka, Zuma, etc), Oblix creates an immediate frisson as mesmerised diners survey the capital, laid out below like a three-dimensional Google Earth map. Rising to the skyscraper challenge, Becker has taken multicultural New York for his inspiration here, with a menu of skilful food tailored to the ‘unforgettable’, gasp-inducing backdrop. Starters are mainly salad-based plates, including a knockout assembly of iceberg lettuce, tangy blue cheese and shards of pancetta, while mains look to the rotisserie and grill: veal chop with gremolata and rib-eye steak are both of superlative quality. After that, puddings such as a wondrous chocolate-brownie sundae or ‘the best cheesecake outside of New York’ may invoke yet more oohs and aahs. Service, alas, veers from ‘sympathetic’ to ‘incompetent’ and prices are inevitably high, but the outlay is generally deemed well worth it.
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