The old Dysart Arms has been transformed from jolly local boozer into a proper fine-dining restaurant that’s keen to impress – thanks to ex-Roux scholar Kenneth Culhane and his team, who cook top-quality ingredients with a mix of classic know-how, youthful enthusiasm and curiosity. A beautiful foie gras terrine, coupled with smoked eel and apple, is offered with a shot of gloriously sweet, plum-flavoured saké, while a great chunk of halibut with a delicate ‘Viennese’ crust arrives with a rich, creamy vin jaune sauce. After that, expect thought-provoking desserts such as a Valrhona chocolate and praline bar with miso-salted caramel ice cream. This is ambitious, trophy-hunting food and we reckon it deserves support – although it’s a shame that the pubby bar and gastropub furniture don’t quite fit the picture. Still, a kindly priced wine list with plenty by the glass or carafe helps to make amends.
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