The brains behind Notting Hill’s Mall Tavern have worked wonders on the old Regent pub, gutting the interiors, dividing off a restaurant section and decking the whole site out with a pared-back mix of leather banquettes, butcher’s tiles and dark-blue wood panelling. The bar takes beer seriously, with the lesser-known Camden Ink Stout on tap and bottles from the likes of Bermondsey’s Kernel Brewery, while the open-plan kitchen does the simple things well – a starter of home-smoked salmon arrives with homemade pickles and soda bread, and cheese burgers are cooked medium-rare as requested. However, avoid the re-invented ‘wagon wheel’ snack for dessert – it has little justification beyond the theatrics of delivery. With a lively buzz at the weekend, the early signs are that The Parlour will reinforce Kensal Green’s growing reputation as a go-to patch of north-west London.
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