Success with The Princess of Shoreditch and The Lady Ottoline has paved the way for their owners’ third gastropub, located amid Islington’s grand stucco terraces. Eat in the bar or the cosy dining room from a sensibly concise menu that takes its cue from the pub’s meaty moniker. Pork rillettes offer a well-judged balance of silken fat and flavoursome flesh, or you could start with blood pudding, endive and orange. Portions are pretty daunting, so removing one ingredient from, say, velvety duck breast on beetroot, cabbage and borlotti beans with tomato and kumquat might be an idea. If you still have room, pud might include tangy lemon posset topped with fresh peach. Fruity Pays d’Oc kicks off an approachable wine list, while satisfying craft beers and cider include Bath Gem and Hackney Brewery’s excellent Golden Ale. Service is brisk and good-natured.
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