Such is the allure of this bijou bodega, it can convince even the most ardent sherry-phobes to fall in love with the drink. Considering how busy the place gets (note, no bookings), reports of thoughtful service suggest that Capote y Toros really cares about its customers. Bright walls, hanging hams and sherry barrels are par for the course, and staff keep the show moving at a brisk pace. While the dazzling, 100-strong sherry list gets top billing, that shouldn't take anything away from the food. The focus is on Spain's famous charcuterie – from acorn-fed ibérico hams to cured beef from Léon – but the kitchen also adds a few culinary flourishes including flavoursome white beans in oxtail sauce and the highly commended carpaccio of duck liver with Pedro Ximénez reduction (‘so good we had it twice'). WINE LIST: A staggering line-up of sherries covering every conceivable style, from bracing, salty finos to rich Pedro Ximénez, & all points in between. With the non-fortified wines, Riojas & Priorats rub shoulders with less-famous regions such as Bierzo & Murcia. But sherry is the star here, & rightly so. BEST BUY WHITE Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, Manzanilla Pastrana Pasada, Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Jerez, Spain, £30. BEST BUY RED 2006 Macià Batle Crianza, Binissalem, Mallorca, Spain £31.
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