This kooky and trendy diner ‘trots on’, playing to Fitzrovia’s peckish hordes all hours of the day, and delivering catch-all food in an immense open space that looks like your eccentric granny’s oversized front room – complete with stuffed squirrels, giant frilly lampshades, retro seats and nostalgia curios. Easy comfort food is the deal, from hot breakfasts through to health-conscious salads, Sunday roasts, small plates and stomach-filling classics. It’s hardly ground-breaking stuff, but there’s plenty to enjoy and applaud, from crisp chorizo hash-browns, spiced pumpkin fritters, partridge terrine and the ‘triumphant’ soft-shell crab with XO mayo to ‘sensational’ bone-marrow burgers, schnitzels and steaks. Otherwise, join the spree for top-notch cocktails at the rambunctious bar. The mood is incorrigibly playful, although staff are ‘supremely knowledgeable’.
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