Londoners may remember New York superstar Jean-Georges Vongerichten from Vong; now he’s back, sprinkling some of his stardust in this, the first European outpost of Spice Market – a louche, pan-Asian outfit housed in the shiny new W Hotel. Asian street food is the kitchen’s inspiration & many dishes are served ‘family style’ (or whenever the kitchen deems them ready) – although prices are hardly streetwise. A cheek-puckeringly vibrant assemblage of hamachi sashimi with warm crunchy rice, chipotle emulsion & spring onion stands out from the ‘raw’ section, while punchy little shrimp cakes, delicate steamed lobster with butter-fried garlic, ginger & dried chilli, & a less restrained dish of halibut with Malaysian chilli sauce & Thai basil all pass muster. France & America lead an easy-to-negotiate wine list, with ‘house sodas’ available for abstainers.
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