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If you fancy getting into this fashionable Chinatown offshoot of the super-chic Paris original, bear in mind that ECC's door policy isn't necessarily egalitarian: you could negotiate with the ‘beret-wearing doorman', although you'll probably need to queue unless you've secured an appointment in advance. Frock up before you rock up, because this is a sophisticats' late-late lounge frequented by an occasionally star-dusted clientele. Knowledgeable bartenders are keen to create couture cocktails built on your chosen premium spirit, alongside a well-considered menu ranging from kota ternate (Plantation rum, mixed teas, arrak, spices, pineapple, lime juice, coconut and milk) to smoke and mirrors (Del Maguey crema de mezcal, Punt e Mes, cherry Heering liqueur and grapefruit juice). Those who grumble about ‘snotty service' and ‘OTT prices' should be glad they don't live in Paris.

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