A bold foray into the rarefied world of Italian vegetarian cuisine, Amico Bio comes courtesy of Via Condotti founder Pasquale Amico and offers an eco-friendly menu with cameos from vegan and gluten-free dishes (seitan and vegetable kebab with cucumber dip, for example). Most ingredients are shipped from Amico’s organic farm near Naples, and they appear in a range of stuzzichini and antipasti (spaghetti ‘omelette’ or couscous with Annurche apple-and-fig salad, for example), as well as bigger dishes including wholemeal pennette with broccoli and tofu. Desserts such as warm wheat and ricotta tart end things on a challenging note, but ‘green-thinking’ zeal doesn’t always translate into good food – judging by reports of ‘bland, tasteless’ dishes and clumsy cooking. The interior blends wooden floors with photos of 1940s’ Italy – although some reckon there’s more atmosphere ‘inside a cardboard box’.
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