Kitchen W8

Eagerly awaited newcomer Kitchen W8 certainly has pedigree in spades, & expectations have been pitched accordingly. The involvement of chef Phil Howard (The Square) gives the operation a ‘destination’ gloss, while his co-owner Rebecca Mascarenhas (Sonny’s, The Phoenix) brings her considerable experience in high-end neighbourhood restaurants. The site – formerly 11 Abingdon Road – has been given a sophisticated makeover, with beige colour schemes & a muted, mature vibe. By contrast, service is chirpy & there’s plenty of vibrancy on the plate, where gutsy ingredients are invigorated with some upbeat flourishes. A cockle-warming game consommé, topped with thick bacon cream & served with a miniature game hot dog sets the tone, while mains have equally punchy aspirations – perhaps grilled ox tongue paired with a foie gras-topped baked potato, roast cod with caramelised trotter, savoy cabbage & lentils, or hand-rolled sheets of pappardelle coated in a rich hare ragù. An accessible wine list partners the food admirably.