It may have a Michelin star but, to its credit, there’s a distinct lack of fine-dining pomp & posturing at this smart & ‘utterly charming’ neighbourhood eatery. The name says it all, & the populist intent shows in ‘sweet’ service & a BYO offer on Sundays (£15 corkage). Not that Kitchen W8 is rough around the edges. Readers have been bowled over by its refined & ‘staggeringly good food’, be it a simple but ‘accomplished’ plate of partridge ravioli with ceps on melted onions, ‘milky sweet’ rump of veal with caramelised cauliflower, roast salsify & parmesan, or whole lemon sole with peas à la française. Sumptuous hot chocolate pudding & mini-doughnuts rolled in cinnamon with apple compote & crème catalan complete the picture. Set-lunch menus are an absolute steal (£17.50 for two courses on weekdays), while the wine list starts cheap & moves systemically upwards in price.
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