This ornate Portman Village restaurant is a loving celebration of the food of Pakistan & northern India, & the stage is set to show it off. The luxurious interior comes complete with carved screens, stained-glass ceiling lights, ornate mirrors & extravagantly plumped-up cushions – sink too deep & you might disappear. Lamb chops marinated in fenugreek, black pepper & garlic are an addictive way to start, though lighter salads & papdi channa chaat also work beautifully. Griddled tawa dishes are worth ordering, as is the house special, ishtu – slow-cooked lamb with yoghurt, onion, garlic & ginger, best alternated with spoonfuls of one of the best dhals in town. Breads are exemplary & everything is served with style, helping to justify prices that are undoubtedly at the higher end of the Indian spectrum.
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