Richard Corrigan never fails to impress’, and the Irish chef’s Mayfair flagship continues to go from strength to strength. This low-ceilinged annexe to Grosvenor House (with its own street entrance) isn’t immediately appealing, but a long bar, tinkling piano, petrol-blue leather upholstery and witty touches such as feather-clad lampshades strike an ‘elegant but not too stuffy’ pose. There’s some generous ‘British character’ here and the cooking is robustly in tune, with a keen eye for seasonality and a talent for transforming butch ingredients into dishes of sublime refinement. Oysters and game are star attractions (venison with pumpkin relish and choucroute, for example), but there’s quality across the board: deep-fried, melt-in-the-mouth crubeens (pig’s trotters) are set amid salad leaves as daintily arranged as any florist’s bouquet; rib of beef balances majestically atop marrow toast, while rhubarb-crumble soufflé is a witty two-puds-in-one idea. The Euro-focused wine list is extremely user-friendly, and relaxed staff deliver ‘timely and polite’ service.
Hugely informative, the list at Corrigan’s Mayfair is fantastic if you don’t want a sommelier hovering while you sweat over which wine to order. ‘Wines to go with oysters’ is one of the sections, as is ‘inky, dark concentrated reds’, but each category is bursting with imaginative, top-notch choices. And given its swanky Mayfair location, mark-ups are reasonable, too.
Since leaving his native Ireland at 17, Richard Corrigan has made quite an impact in the capital. His first restaurant, Lindsay House, opened in Soho in 1997 & gained a Michelin star two years later. He has also revitalised seafood insitution Bentley's & teamed up with caterers Searcys to help shape the food at top contracts such as the Gherkin & the St Pancras Grand. In 2008, Corrigan moved from Lindsay House to The Grosvenor House hotel, where he opened Corrigan’s Mayfair. The restaurant was awarded London Restaurant of the Year 2008/2009 by the Evening Standard, and three AA Rosettes within the first three months of opening. Corrigan also makes regular television appearances on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen, and hosts the Irish primetime television series, Corrigan Knows Food.
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