Like its Hammersmith sibling, Indian Zing, Zest balances traditional Indian cuisine with contemporary technique, though here it comes on a shorter menu with lower pricing, but it’s no less successful. Flavours are strong without being overly spiced and presentation is clean and eye-catching. To start, both the signature vegetable bhanvala (a flat bhaji-style snack of onion and spices steamed and then griddled) and the green peppercorn malai (cheese) tikka make a good impression. Main courses include wonderfully flavoursome mevaari chicken in a spinach, fenugreek and dill sauce, while Khyber Pass raan (lamb shank, poppy seeds, ginger, onion and spice) is a must-have. Just as much attention has been paid to sides and sundries, while the series of intimate dining rooms are subtly decked out in colonial style, punctuated by Indian artefacts and prints. An excellent newcomer.
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