Brawn

Today we payed our first visit to Brawn and what a fabulous lunch we enjoyed to. Set in the heart of Columbia Road , East London is where you’ll find this trendy casual dining restaurant. The menu has a mediterranean theme that is designed for sharing although the sizes of the mains gives you the opportunity to have a starter , main and dessert  if you so desire.

 

We entered to receive a nice friendly welcome and as we looked around the restaurant was full with a good buzzy atmosphere. We were then escorted to our table which was in fact through the other side where you would also find the open kitchen. Once seated we were greeted by Victoria our waitress for the afternoon and who did a fabulous job in looking after us. We started with a cocktail while taking a look at the menu. After chatting to Victoria about the menu and her recommendations we placed our order.

 

We started with a selection of snacks including Bread & Butter , Salame Campagnolo , Parmesan Fritters and Rabbit Rillete Toast. They were absolutely delicious and we couldn’t wait to see what would be coming next.

 

It was now onto our starters where we would share an amazing Cuttlefish , nduja , chickpea , aioli along with a Cornish Crab , violet artichoke , celery , red chilli before finishing with Grilled Lamb Heart , friggitelli pepper , yoghurt , pistachio , mint. The flavours in each dish were perfectly balanced and a delight to eat.

 

We then moved on to the main course where we were in for a real treat with two stunning dishes. My wife chose the Duck Leg with sprout tops , celeriac and pear. For myself I chose the Pork Loin with hispi cabbage , agen prune and mustard that was simply divine. We really were enjoying some amazing food all washed down with a fabulous Momento Mori 2020 Fistful of Flowers natural wine with flavours of pink grapefruit , peach and apricot.

 

It was now time for a little break before moving on to Cheese and Dessert. This started with a selection of two cheeses with jelly and crackers. We followed this with the Quince Posset , biscotti and grappa as well as the heavenly Chocolate Tart with creme fraiche.

 

We finished with a coffee to bring to an end a fantastic first visit to Brawn and one that I would love to repeat soon. The food and wine was amazing and our waitress Victoria was excellent so yes I would highly recommend a visit.

Its taken us a while to eat here, though we visit the Columbia Road area at least several times a year- but then there's some good competition within a mile or two.  But, as so often happens , when eventually ate there yesterday we wondered quite why it has taken us so long and said "see you again" to our pleasant waitstaff as we left- and we meant it.  

Early lunch on Saturday seems to be a good time -for us and for them.  Its not busy but not empty, the service was unfailingly prompt, smiley and polite, and the place looks nice - somewhere in the territory between rustic and industrial, but comfortable. We were didn't really have time for a really leisurely lunch, and going to a wedding after meant limited alcohol for us, but having declared this to our waiter we were out in 70 minutes for two courses and coffee which was perfect for us.

 

We both enjoyed the food.  Possibly an early reputation for a focus on meat and small/sharing plates ( which we've never really taken to) helped keep us away, but the menu we saw yesterday was quite able to support a starter/main /dessert regime, and we both enjoyed our choices.  My wife enjoyed her cucumber & yoghurt soup- to the point whether she wondered how she could make it at home- and my clams & squid pieces with what looked like couscous but possibly wasn't, with bottarga was tasty.  Similarly the pappardelle with veal ragu was nicely cooked.  We both tend to order this dish whenever we can find it and this version was as good as you'd get in the better pasta specialists such as Bancone.  Good bread, and I enjoyed my chilled beaujolais to the extent that I had another despite the several hours of unlimited wine waiting for me a short bus ride away. 

So all told, a successful lunch that I'm sure we'll repeat.    

Great food, location, best charcuterie ever!

Family feel. Stunning restaurant. Best produce in London. I even wrote a piece on them https://alotofchop.wordpress.com/2017/03/20/brawn/.

Columbia Road began its life as a pathway to lead sheep to slaughter in Smithfield. The sheep have now been replaced by yogis, haberdashers and models wearing shearling jackets. London is full of continuity if you know how to look. Hang a left to Ravenscroft Street and you’ll find Brawn which launched as the sister restaurant of Terroirs in 2010 (before being recognised as the more gifted sibling.) East London’s restaurant scene at the time was percolating. Brawn turned it up to eleven and put it firmly on the map. It was completely of its time and still is today. Now fully owned by the oenological don Ed Wilson, Brawn’s concept is to source the very best produce and let the combination of ingredients (rather than the cooking) do the talking. The pared-down menu is always changing and consistently outré; Duck Hearts, Duck Gizzards, Trotters, Andouillette & Brains. A gutsy sybarite’s paradise. There is also pasta. London has more choice of quality restaurants than ever before. Paradoxically, though we gain in our quality of options, we lose out in what loyalty and familiarity can provide. Good or even great restaurants are ephemeral to our spoilt bastard collective. To keep going back means it’s got to be more than exceptional; it has to mean something to you. It has to be personal. Brawn represents this rare personal restaurant to so many people I know. My best friend lives near and has been well over 250 times. He’ll soon get his own plaque. Brawn has a knack of making you feel at home and like you’re on holiday. I can’t explain its alchemy. Nick Lander writes about it most recently and best. full review here: https://alotofchop.wordpress.com/2017/03/20/brawn/

Very friendly staff, a convivial setting and (what appeared to be) an interesting menu did not fully translate into the kind of experience I would pay for again. While the terrine starter was great, the raw beef and avocado was too plain to discuss at any length. The crab pasta had great flavours, but was overcooked (turning it into noodles). The veal belly done porchetta style had (again) good flavours, but came with a very thin stew of beans and rhubarb. That said the atmosphere and setting were both great and we had a fun evening.

I thoroughly enjoyed this lovely restaurant. The service was attentive, the food excellent and that atmosphere relaxed. I was impressed by the variety of starters from pork scratchings, to the most delicious scotch eggs I have ever eaten. The lobster bisque was creamy and incredibly flavourful. I'm looking forward to going back!

Nothing i can really say bad about Brawn. My second visit of the year. The first visit a surprise midweek lunch which delighted. Returning with friends from overseas & building it up rather in my & their expectations we were all mightily pleased by all the above catagories which all scored very high. The room (we sat at the front) is simple but cosy enough & though there was a nice buzz from other tables we could chat & be heard easily. The service exceptional, the waitress with a great knowledge of wine & liqueurs assisted & helped with her expertise in helping us select very well. Elderflower liqueur was a real find instead of a sweet wine with pudding. The food was interesting & eclectic in a very good way with sharing plated allowing us to savour many delicious, delicate & fabulous tastes & textures. Value for money definately yes. The only tiny criticism was the air con which seemed to blow a gale but this is a minor quibble. My overall score is high & would possibly be a bit higher but as this is my first review here i thought i shouldn't get to carried away. The location is a wee bit off the beaten track but do go & explore both the area & the amazing food.

A belated review from the soft opening in December – it was one of their first nights, and the fact that they managed to impress so much on that visit is hopefully a very good sign. First of all, the rooms. We sat in the back room, with a view of the open kitchen (the front room is where the bar is, and where cheese and charcuterie are served, and it seemed a bit buzzier there on the night we visited). It's not a formal, white tablecloth, gleaming cutlery sort of place; the furniture looks reclaimed, the walls are white, there are big windows onto the street, there's a variety of tables and counters to eat at, and it's quite basic and homely. It reminded me of evenings spent sitting in friends' kitchens, able to relax and eat as you please. Service was sweet and friendly – eager to discuss the history and sourcing of the wine and the food, and wanting to please without being intrusive. A warning: it's hard to limit yourself to a sensible amount of food because each section on the menu (Taste Ticklers, Pig, Plancha, etc) begs to be explored. We tried something from each: well-sourced charcuterie ranging from the familiar to some more daring options (a kind of brain/blood sausage on our visit), lovely soft pork rillettes, grilled prawns, clams in a gorgeous buttery sherry broth, an italian version of steak tartare, monkfish cheeks, and a stunning duck and salsify pie that was packed with meat and that I could eat every day. I've lost the paper menu that I took away – it seemed to be mainly meat and fish, but the vegetarian dishes included a nicely dressed salad, a vegetable gratin and a good cheese selection, with plenty of chewy sourdough bread to mop everything up with. I'd like to have explored the puddings more, but had to limit myself to sharing a perfect iles flottantes, sprinkled with crunchy caramel. We left the wine selection to our waiter and drank several different glasses, all of which were good. We were busy discussing and exploring the food on our first visit and didn't pay much attention to what is probably a very good wine list, based on my experience of their sister restaurant. The menu seems to change regularly, according to other accounts I've read, so it's a place that's well worth visiting on a regular basis. The food isn't overly fussy, which is a plus. It's interesting, well-sourced, well-prepared, and the menu has been put together with a lot of thought that allows you to create whatever kind of meal you feel like eating on the night. I'd be happy to call in for some charcuterie and cheese, or to have a much larger meal. I'm looking forward to exploring the wine list further because I imagine as much thought has been put into it as the food menu.