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Square Meal Review of Zafferano ?

Appealing to a smartly attired, well-to-do cosmopolitan clientele, slick, sophisticated Zafferano has been doing its thing since 1995, and is entering a new era following the departure of long-serving head chef Andy Needham. This is not a place for innovation, but the kitchen still treats top-quality seasonal ingredients with respect and understanding. Antipasti of lemony crab salad or bresaola set the tone, gorgeous fresh pasta is a standout (our squid-ink tonnarelli with prawns and bottarga sang of the Mediterranean), and substantial mains might run from roast veal cutlet with mash and mushrooms to monkfish with sautéed chard, pine nuts and sultana sauce. Portions are large enough to satisfy the fattest Belgravia fatcat, rendering classic Italian puds almost superfluous. A noisier 60-seat bar attracts a younger, less formal evening crowd, although Zafferano is still “perfect for business lunches”.

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