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Square Meal Review of Wiltons ?

Like the most inspirational of rags-to-riches stories, Wiltons has gone from 18th-century oyster barrow to the establishment diner of choice for today’s captains of industry and toffs up from the shires. Change has come slowly, but recent evolution has ushered in an enticing bar, plus Saturday evening service and an opened-up dining room – though the velvet banquettes and oil paintings remain. Women are still a rare sight – apart from the pinny-wearing waitresses, who briskly advise customers what to eat in the best tradition of ‘nanny knows best’. We did as we were told and enjoyed delicate smoked Lincolnshire eel, perfectly sautéed Dover sole bathed in golden butter, and a sugar-dusted cherry and raspberry soufflé – plus some of the best oysters in town. Prices will make you wince but it’s worth shelling out for a special occasion.

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Private Dining at Wiltons

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The Jimmy Marks Room 20

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