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London's second-oldest restaurant is a decidedly love-it-or-hate it experience, and isn't everyone's cup of tea: critics point to "outrageous" pricing and "unimaginative cuisine", while fans (that's us included) adore this "great venue" and its "very polite and helpful" staff. If you can get past those
steep prices and inside, you'll find a charmingly old-fashioned slice of St James's (where else would you get fish knives these days?), with cosy
booths, dinky velvet armchairs and properly dressed tables. The cooking is straightforward and designed to showcase the best of British seafood: native oysters at their peak, smoked eel so delicate that it would be a crime to add horseradish, peerless Dover sole meunière and, as befits Wiltons' jaunty lobster mascot, the crustacean served every which way: thermidor is our favourite, boozy with brandy. Meat appears in a mixed grill, roasts are carved from the trolley and there's game in season too. Set menus can keep bills in check, but good-living Wiltons is really no place for watching the pennies.
Square Meal is proud to be supporting homeless charity StreetSmart in their 2016 campaign, for the seventh year running.
StreetSmart works with over 400 restaurants nationwide by adding £1 to every bill throughout November and December, which is donated to local homeless charities.
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