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Square Meal Review of Wilks ?

Chef James Wilks got his first break as a teenager working at Midsummer House in Cambridge, before travelling the globe and cooking in some serious Michelin-starred restaurants including Michel Bras in Languiole. Fast-forward a few years and James now has his own Michelin-starred gaff in Bristol – with a mini art gallery attached. The food here is light, contemporary and seasonal, with West Country producers making a big contribution but culinary ideas gleaned from the owners’ travels: a warm salad of wood pigeon dressed up with sweet potato purée, walnuts and nasturtium; sesame-crusted Brixham cod with violet artichokes and red Russian kale; breast of duck and leg ‘en croûte’ partnered by girolles and English plum compote – followed by one of Wilks’ signature meringues. Fixed-price deals are great value, and there are bargains to be had on the youthful wine list too.

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