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Lobster thermidor crème brûlée with bloody Mary sorbet is just one of the inventive offerings served up at TV chef Paul Wedgwood’s eponymous restaurant on the Royal Mile. Spread over two levels, it
provides a thoroughly contemporary backdrop for cooking with its finger on pulse. Wedgwood was an early adopter of foraging, and the fruits of his ramblings can been seen in dishes such as
Jack-by-the-hedge vichyssoise with goats’ cheese mousse or wild garlic pannacotta with crushed peas and root crisps, although he also plays around with trendy themes – adding a daub of beetroot
‘paint’ to blue cheese risotto bonbons and serving pork fillet with smoked cauliflower cream, crispy ears, braised cabbage and curry oil. The fun and games also run through to mischievous desserts
such as the breakfast-themed ‘marmalade on toast’ with tea sorbet, Weetabix and milk chew.
Bowed but not broken by the crushing mediocrity of my visit to Monteith’s, yesterday, I decided to venture back to the Royal Mile to visit Wedgwood.Well, I say decided, but I didn’t have a Wedgwoodian masterplan in mind. I was wandering with a vague notion of lunching somewhere like Jeffrey Street, but on this fine Bank Holiday, I was confronted with a sign in Wedgwood’s window saying two courses for £10, and that had me sold.This place has been on our list for a wee while without us ever quite getting round to making a reservation. Speaking of not making a reservation, I hadn’t today and...
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