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Squaremeal Review of Vintage Salt City ?

Ex-Caprice Holdings CEO Des McDonald now has his name above the door at this sleek City offshoot of his Vintage Salt restaurant in Islington. Beyond the steel and glass exterior, a mixture of mushy pea-green counter tops and saucy cartoons of 50s-style pin-up girls conjures up British seaside nostalgia – minus the greasy spoons. Refined idiosyncrasy defines the menu too, with straight-talking descriptions making light of top-quality seafood: our textbook fish pie was generously filled with hunks of soft salmon, while deep-fried haddock came encased in delicate, crisp batter. The varied line-up also incorporates crab on toast with avocado, shrimp burgers, fishcakes, curries and the odd meat dish such as Lancashire hotpot, while the cocktail list has maritime overtones – think Stolichnaya vodka paired with anchovy brine. Tricky to find, but handily placed alongside Liverpool Street station and good for lunchtime takeaways too.

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