By Appointment Only at Victorian Bath House

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The ornate Moorish interior of these 1890s former Turkish baths is worthy of an Ottoman palace. Bathing ceased here in the 1950s, and today the venue has been recast as a pretend Victorian gentlemen’s club – a well-worn theme that is better executed elsewhere. ‘Butlers’ guide you on a ‘cocktail adventure’, which might entail Rhubarb Flip and a vodka St Clements, or Salted Toffee From Hipflask (a pre-batched whisky Old Fashioned as cloyingly sweet as molten Werther’s Originals). Home-infused ‘GINspirations’, poured from Tanqueray bottles, include heady lavender and rosemary, and even quince and blue cheese gin, which might work in a dry Martini. Free bubbles on arrival is a nice touch, but the initial coupes we’re handed are disappointingly fizz-free. In such sensational surroundings, BAO should be fabulous; let’s hope operators, Camm & Hooper (also behind Tanner & Co on Bermondsey Street), up their game before our next appointment.

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