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It’s only been plying its trade since 2008, but The Seahorse already has the kind of warmth you might associate with a bedded-in, family-run eatery on an Italian backstreet – not a Devon waterfront. Proprietor and fish guru Mitch Tonks has positioned himself as the natural successor to Rick Stein’s crown in these parts, and he certainly knows all about freshness. Much of the daily catch comes from nearby Brixham, and the kitchen treats its seasonal haul with due respect: scallops are roasted in the shell with white port and garlic; mussels are steamed with bay leaves and chilli; hake is cooked in the Basque style with garlic and romesco sauce. Elsewhere, monkfish and turbot are grilled over the fire, while Italian-themed desserts could include poached white peach with lemon verbena and ricotta gelato. The extensive fish-friendly wine list takes its cue from Europe.
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